We’re in the final stretch of sailing with our flailing steering system. Just 250 miles stand between us and our much awaited steering refit, but we’re unwilling to face a Maramu hurling 14-foot waves on our rudders.

The beauty, freedom and sense of discovery in the Tuamotus is addicting but sailing between atolls and navigating the passes to access the lagoons and their underwater world can be quite tricky.